Binondo is the world’s oldest Chinatown, with written records showing it was established in 1564. According to historians, as early as 1603, there were already 20,000 Chinese residents recorded in Manila (compared to barely 1,000 Spaniards). Pre-Spanish colonization, the Philippines was already trading with the Chinese as evidenced by the Chinese jars and ceramicware and influence in food dug up as archeaological finds.

1. Binondo and the Chinese settlement
2. Food Trip in Binondo
3. Other Places to Visit Around Binondo
   1. Hidalgo Street: The Street of Cameras
   2. Escolta: The Old and the Beautiful

When in Manila, I’m always interested to go to Binondo. This year, 2024, will be the third time I’ve visited Binondo and, honestly, I still want to learn more. Maybe it’s because, eventhough Cebu has a sizeable Chinese community (and actually many crazy rich Chinese-descent Cebuanos: the Gaisanos, and the Gokongweis, to name only two of the many), the “Chinatown in Cebu” is not as defined as in Binondo or in other Chinatowns in the world (Yao Wa Rat in Bangkok, Melaka in Malaysia, Singapore, and Hoi An in Vietnam).

Binondo and the Chinese settlement

Binondo is found along the Pasig river, and it was established as a pariancillo in 1594. I am guessing that prior to 1594, there was already a Chinese settlement in the area, all the Spanish government had to do was declare it as a pariancillo. There are other pariancillos in the Philippines, including one in Vigan, Malolos, Iloilo and Cebu. Cebu’s Parian, which is still called Barangay Parian until now, is where the Yap-Sandiego House and the Casa Gorordo Museum are located.

Food Trip in Binondo

Honestly, I don’t go to Binondo for the food. But I do try to taste some food in Binondo that are not in Cebu. This year, our goal in Binondo was to go on a “food trip” but we only had Taiwanese fried baos for starters, Chuan Kee for late lunch, Salazar Bakery for some pineapple hopia, and Grand Cafe 1919 for coffee. In my past visits, I’ve eaten siopao, lumpia, and Eng Bee Tin hopia (although I admit I prefer the Cebuano hopias).

At Chuan Kee, we ordered their xiao long bao, hakaw, pork dumplings, kiam pong, kikiam, sweet & sour meatballs, beef tendon noodles, fried chicken, and oyster cake. Among these, I loved all the dumplings and the kikiam. I will say it now (I’ve never disclosed this in the blog before), in 2018, we ate at Cafe Mezzanine (the cafe above Chuan Kee) and we were served stale siopao. So, I actually vowed then to never order siopao from Binondo again.

Other Places to Visit Around Binondo

Hidalgo Street: The Street of Cameras

Hidalgo Street is not in Binondo, but in Quiapo. If you are a film camera enthusiast, this is where you should go. The street, named after a great Filipino artist, Felix Hidalgo, is apt for imagery lovers. Don’t expect cheap prices because the shops here are not camera junk shops, they know the market value of the cameras so you pay for that.

Escolta: The Old and the Beautiful

Escolta is one of the oldest streets (recorded) in the Philippines. It runs along the Pasig River, and, my, I’m sure it was grand during its heyday. There are still remnants of the beautiful structures but very few have been well preserved. The modern Chinatown arc is in Escolta. We dropped by Grand Cafe 1919 for a cup of coffee and to take a reprieve from the hot summer afternoon.

Sources:

ERIK AKPEDONU AND CZARINA SALOMA. Manila’s “Chinatown”: Globalization and Built Heritage

Calle de la Escolta and Binondo’s Economic Significance. https://mediakron.bc.edu/edges/2019-midterm-projects/binondo/calle-de-la-escolta